Apr 28, 2012 The ridge cap PrepItForward. How to Cut Install Ridge Cap Shingles on Roof House Shed Garage Barn - Duration. Download Geekbench 2 For Ipad. Wood Shingle or Shake Roof Hip / Ridge Installation and. To prevent splitting of ridge-cap shingles, it is best to install them with a. Solar heating, radiative.
Get the right number of shingles for the job. It generally takes three bundles of shingles to cover 100 square feet (9.29 square meters). Asphalt shingle 'bundles' are actually sealed in packages (the term bundle comes from wooden shingles which actually came tied up with wire in bundles). Measure your roof and buy appropriately. • Measure the length and width of the individual sections of the roof, multiplying them together to determine the area.
Add the areas of each section together, then divide by 100 to get the correct number of squares. Multiply this number by 3 to get the number of bundles you'll need to buy. Measure the length of a shingle as it lies across the roof. This will help determine how the shingles will lay on the roof width. Most asphalt shingles are 3 feet (91.4 centimeters) in length.
If your roof's width is not an even multiple of the shingle's length, you will have a partial piece on one end of each row. • The bottom row of shingles must hang past the edge of the roof. For a wood shingle roof you would have to cut the shingles that go on the edge to create a straight line to accommodate this.
Remove old shingles and flashing. Start removing the shingles at the peak farthest from the trash container, or the corner you want to collect the shingles in. Use a garden fork or a roofing shovel to pull them off quickly, use the hammer-method and go by hand for a more thorough job. Make sure that you protect the sides of the house and the windows during this process, such as by leaning a large piece of plywood against the house below where you are working.
Otherwise you might break a window or damage the siding. • Pry up the nails and loosening the ridge caps. It's ok if you don't get all the nails at first, because you'll have a chance to go back through and remove them later. • Remove the metal flashing around chimneys, vents, and valleys in the roof. Flashing in the valleys will almost always be trashed, especially. Some roofers will keep some of the flashing that's in good shape, but it's probably worth junking it all when you've got the chance.
Install underlayment and new flashing. Lay asphalt, felt-paper, or special waterproof underlayment, over the roof. Softplan 2012 Keygen. Some roofers will use 15-pound (6.8 kg) roofing paper, which is an effective method. Staple this felt down, starting at the lowest point of your roof and working upward. Overlap each row at least 3 inches.
Use plenty of staples and work carefully to avoid tearing the paper. Be generous with the staples while attaching the paper to the roof deck. Use 'tin caps' under staples, if the roof may be exposed to wind before shingles are to be applied.
• Use sticky back ice and water shield as underlayment where ice dams or leaf and twig dams are likely to build up, and at valleys and where the roof ends at a wall (wide metal flashing may also be used there). • Install new flashing. Nail metal flashing called 'drip edge' along the bottom edge of the roof deck near the gutters. You will also need rake edge flashing for the sides of the roof. Make sure to install flashing around the chimneys and walls. These types of flashing are known as step flashing and turn back flashing.
Use chalk lines to make a guide for yourself. Depending on the type of shingles you're using and the roof you're working on, you may need to marking a chalk guideline beginning 7 inches (17.8cm) from the bottom roof edge.
In either case the glue strip of the starter course is then placed along the drip edge, and at the rake edges as well. • Mark from the left to right edge of the roof so the chalk line will be seen immediately above each course as a guideline.
Continue to chalk additional guidelines based on the width of the shingle through at least four courses (rows) across the roof. When you are laying felt paper, make sure that the lines on the paper are running in a square pattern. Cut your starter-course shingles if necessary. If you are making your own starter shingles, cut the tabs off for the 'starter course' (bottom row) of shingles. To prepare the tabs and lay the starter course, shorten the first starter shingle by 6 inches (or about a half of one tab). Place the glue strip at and all along the drip edge, and the rake edges as well.
You will shingle over this starter course, so the bottom course will be double thickness. • Instead of cutting off all three tabs, you can also reverse the shingles for a starter course, so that the entire shingle with tabs turned upward are under your first course of shingles.
With either method, putting the solid edge at the drip edge and cutting 6 inches off the length of first starter shingle prevents the slots between the tabs from lining up with the first regular course laid over the starter, thus not to expose the asphalt roofing paper through the slots of that bottom row. • Nail the shingles with no tabs, such as precut Pro-Start shingles, and apply asphalt cement from a caulk gun in many dots along the drip edge under the edge, then press the tab-less shingles down onto the line of asphalt cement dots with adequate spaces between the dots. A continuous bead of asphalt could trap condensation or windblown water under the roofing at some point.